Sanctuary of Truth (Prasat Satchantham), Pattaya, Thailand

Sanctuary of Truth

If you expect that this is a place with a history, you'll be disappointed. It couldn't have a history as it hadn't even completed. It had been building since the 1980s, and work was still being carried out when we were there (in 2009). By the look of it, it will at least take another decade to finish it (the guide suggested 2025). I guess our tickets would help to build it.

Without reading too much on it (I like surprise), I imagine it was similar to Wat Phra Yai that I visited 3 months ago (you can read my article here). It turned out they have nothing in common, and had to say it's a pleasant surprise.

Construction work being carried out

Apart from being something that built for the tourists, it's hard to classify as a temple or a museum or simply a work of art. I say it's a bit of all three.

Considering Thailand is the Land of the Wats, tourists easily mistaken to think that any touristy place in Thailand is going to be temple.

The Thai name for Sanctuary of Truth is Prasat Satchantham (you might see other way of writing its name. Commonly Prasat Sut Ja-Tum. This is a typical problem with transliteration). The name 'Prasat' is translated as 'Castle', not 'temple'. One shouldn't expect it to be a wat.

Instead of "Sanctuary of Truth", maybe it should be opted for the literal translation of "Castle of Philosophy", which sounds like something coming out of Harry Potter or Lord of the Ring.

Whatever it is, it's a showcase of the masterful craftsmanship of its carpenters, for the whole place is built out of wood. This is quite unique in Thailand. I have traversed the length of Thailand from Phuket in the south to Changmai in the north, I had yet seen anything like this. The organic nature of wood making this structure much more "spiritual". I was told that no nails or glue were used to put the pieces together (this is similar to most Chinese (indeed East Asian) ancient architectures. Only dovetailing and other established traditional interlocking structures that evolved over many centuries).

Strong pyramidal shape. It rises an impressive 105 metres

For those who's dead set on only looking at historical buildings, this would be a let down. For those who don't mind just admiring the skills and the stunning visual impact the building has on its observer, and enjoy looking at the numerous exquisitely carved wooden sculptures, and reliefs, it's a feast for the eyes. This wowed me as it's so unexpected such project exist in Pattaya, given some of its culturally tarnish image.

Like Angkor Wat where it has many stories of Buddha are part of the structure of the building. Speaking of Angkor Wat, I don't believe the similarities between the two are coincidental. This structure has a strong influence of Khmer architecture. Like the strong pyramidal shape of the whole building (which in turn originated in Hindu architecture).

There's the four-head "reliefs" that reminiscent of the similar architecture in Angkor Thom. You can read my travel diary to Siem Reap here.

Four faces in Sanctuary of Truth

Four giant stone faces of Avalokiteshvara, Angkor Thom, Cambodia

While it has strong influence from the the Khmer architecture. It actually has 4 gopuras, each represents the religious representations of Thai, Cambodia, Hindu and Chinese.


Yes, it's a place that one would describe as a tourist trap with the many touristy sideshows. I don't mind at all. Seeing this building worth my whole trip. Some of us may enjoy the sideshows, especially for the kiddies.

Animal rides

There's the buggy ride as well as elephant ride.

Dolphin Show

This show is definitely came out of the left field. Of course, a zoologist ignoramus like myself would expect a bottlenose dolphin sprung out of water. It turned out to be nothing I have seen before. And what's more it performed in a river. Since this place is so close to the ocean, the water would be estuarine (a mix of sea and fresh water).

Thai Traditional Dance

The Traditional Thai dance, which was included in the ticket was nice enough until a couple of machete wielding guys starred to go at each other. Like the dolphin show, this part of the Thai martial art didn't fit in too well with the place. I left before the performance ended. The machete seemed too much of a close shave to me (I use electric shaver).

Buddhist Lent Street Parade, Pattaya, Thailand

It was 3rd July. As I'm not a Yank, so I didn't take any note of it (as the eve of the American Independence Day). In Thailand, 3 July is an important day for Thai people (at least for this year. The day will be different every year as this day isn't based on the Gregorian calendar). I didn't realise that until I saw a colourful street parade appeared on Beach Road at about 5 pm. The busy traffic was halted, and the parade moved westwards towards Walking Street not far from where I stood, which was opposite the beach.

Of course, the passing colourful floats didn't tell me much. If anything, I was puzzled by what the parade was all about until I saw a pupil holding the sign that explained it all.

Very informative for farange like me

The parade consisted of city workers, school kids, residents and it was quite a long parade. The different floats were judged in term of its representation.

This candle float won the first prize

The Lent marks the 3-months period where monks go back to their own temples to meditate and to do study. Worshippers would present gift to the monks - candles and whatnots - as a way to earn merit.

This was a nice pleasant surprise.

Banana Crêpe, Fruit Stands, and the Red Light District, Pattaya, Thailand

Pattaya: Party Ya!  Pattaya: Part Two Ya!

Banana Crêpe

Nice to be back. One of the things I missed about Pattaya is the banana crepe. Both Ada and myself love this terrific dessert. Its allure lies in its simplicity. There are other crepes with different fillings like raisin, palm seeds and cashew nuts. But banana is our cup of tea.

Thai banana crepes with a dollop of butter onto the pan

Nearly all done, turning off the pan

Banana slices are wrapped in a flour dough, lightly fried on a flat round iron plate in butter for a few minutes until it browns. Nestlé carnation milk is dripped onto it, and sugar added (which we always insist to skip it - there're enough sugar in the banana and the condensed milk). Fantastic to eat hot off the frying plate. I don't know how many of these stands there are in Pattaya, the one we enjoy run by a middle-aged Thai lady outside a 7-Eleven store (as seen in the photo background) on Second Road not far from where we stayed (Fraser Resort). See google map below for location (from memory). See google map further below.

The following photos show another lady vendor selling the same thing. They're quite popular here for good reason.

This crepe stand locates on Beach Road right across the beach (as seen from the background). But I haven't tried her cooking.

From this photo, she only had banana filling. I think they're the best. I go banana with bananas.

Fruit Stands

Other thing I missed are cockles and especially the rose apples. Sure I can get these in Singapore, but they are about 4.5 times more expensive. More importantly the convenience of getting them. Fruit stands are dotted around Beach Road every 30 metres or so. The fruit are packed neatly in the glass cases on ice, making them impossible to resist especially on sunny days.

Itinerant street vendor selling fruit is busy on a mobile phone
Their business is on wheels, so they tend to move around

Cockles are common in SE Asia cooking. For someone grew up in Vietnam, the memories of eating it would warm the cockles of my heart. Before the Vietnamese brought them into the Cabra markets, you can't find them anywhere in Sydney. Even now, you won't find them on any menu of any restaurants in Sydney (don't know about other states of Australia). Pipis are Sydney's cockles. Pipis are larger but not as tasty as cockles.

Walking Street

The streets are quiet especially before 4 pm when Pattaya just wakes up from its nightlife hangovers. Fraser Resort locates on Pattaya City Walk, close to where all the "actions" are. It's near the southern end of Pattaya Beach, and a stone throw from the Walking Street.

Neon signs on Walking Street,  searing your eyes, fighting for your attention

Gogo bar on Walking Street titillating and assaulting your senses

Open bar stands around Pattaya City Walk area

You'll find that people there refers street names that are different from the google maps' official names
(click to enlarge)

Even in this low season, this area comes alive after 9 pm with neon light blazing, blinking at you alluringly with its bright colourful (but mostly red) eyes. Pattaya City Walk is right next to some odd sounding official street name like Pattaya Soi 13, better known as Pattayaland Soi 1, the gogo bars central (rivalled only by those in Walking Street).

Kitten Club, a gogo bar at Pattayaland Soi 2. Hey what's up pussycat?

A kaleidoscope of dazzling neon light, searing the wide-open eyes

And only two lanes ("soi" in Thai) away is, you've guessed it, Pattayaland 2, and a even smaller lane that runs off Pattayaland Soi 2 is Pattyaland Soi 3 with its other end connects to the gay venue of Boyztown. While gay bars are scattered around this area, Boyztown is the heart.

The arch of a raised eyebrow, beckoning "C'mon boyz..."

Its Boyztown logo suspended high in the sky as if to beckon with an raised eyebrow to the pedestrians walking unsuspectingly on Second Road. Some people refer to the the whole area from Pattayaland Soi 1 to Pattayaland Soi 3 to as Boyztown as gay boy bars are interspersed between girly bars in Pattayaland soi 1 and soi 2. As I walked past these sois, I would be chatted up by all sorts. Girls in cosplay as maids and nurses, and boys. Although I'm only passer-by and had never intended to become their customer, I don't mind it at all as the touts in Pattaya isn't aggressive. In fact, sex workers here are mild mannered and friendly. Perhaps the government tourism agency have had given them a stern talk about aggressive touts that would annoy tourists.

Despite its close proximity to the Pattayaland Sois, Pattaya City Walk is set up as a respectable soi. In Asian countries like Thailand, the respectable and the not-so (or socially so-so) can rub shoulders against one another (Such contrast are less likely , but not unheard of in the West. Back in my hometown of Sydney, Kings cross comes to mind). A wat - Thai Buddhist temple - is located not far from the crepes street vendor, at the corner of all this worldly affair of the flesh. But then, isn't Buddhism about tolerance and compassion?

Opposite Fraser Resort is an open-air restaurant that has traditional Thai dance performance every night, and it's officially opened tonight by Her Highness Princess (The King's daughter-in-law). I'm somewhat disappointed to have missed to grace her presence because of my departure tonight for Bangkok

That's how Pattaya mixes - the very healthy banana crêpe (can sound pervert if your head is in the gutter) and fruit stands mixing with the red light district, and the respectable traditional Thai dances. Everything goes.